Review – New winter menu at The New Club
Regular readers will know that we’re pretty big fans of The New Club – I myself raved frequently last year about chef Tom Griffiths’ weekend Supper Club fare – so I didn’t need to be asked twice to come down and sample their new winter evening menu.
American comfort food is still on offer if that’s what you’re after – burgers, ribs, great steak – and they’ve ditched the Cali-Mex stuff (plenty of other places in town if you fancy Mexican). What is new and exciting is that the innovative, beautiful-looking food that made an appearance on Tom’s Supper Club menus form the backbone of this new one, this time as small or large plates that are fun with share with friends.
We were given a selection to try, starting with three small plates: Steamed pork bun with punchy kimchi (£6.50) was our favourite – a beautiful soft, light bun with melting, glazed soy-rich belly and a spiky hot pickle. The Stickiest wings with black sesame (£5) were predictably moreish and messy, and the Roasted mixed beets with smoked goat’s curd, gingerbread and fennel yogurt (£4.50) was tangy and refreshing – though I could’ve done with a slice of toasted sourdough to slather the curd onto.
Next up, Tom wanted us to try a few veggie options, so we shared Roast pumpkin with kabocha squash puree, roasted gnocchi and mixed nuts (£8) plus two sides: Charred tenderstem broccoli with peanuts and ranch (£4) and Caramelised sweet potato with bell pepper salsa, crispy shallots and bacon (£4.50). (Yes, I know bacon isn’t vegetarian, shush). Everything was absolutely delicious, though if given the choice I wouldn’t have gone for sweet potato alongside pumpkin. Serious root veg overload.
Want your mains a bit meatier? The Hickory sticky bourbon pork ribs with pomegranate slaw (£12) and Grilled whole black bream with pickled punchy salsa (£11) jumped out at me. I’ll also definitely go for the Truffle duck egg with truffle mayo, and Truffle Mac & Cheese next time I visit. And I’m delighted to see my very favourite comfort food, the Marrow fried gnocchi, have survived the menu cull.
For dessert, we couldn’t resist the much-tweeted about Snickers Mess (£4.50) – it’s possible we arm-wrestled over this one – and then finished with Lime cream cheese, Italian meringue, toasted coconut and citrus sorbet (£4.50). Beautifully cleansing (well … of the palate, possibly not the arteries).
If you want to impress someone this Valentine’s Day, the New Club’s tasting menu looks fab and is an absolute bargain at £35 a head for five courses, a glass of Prosecco, coffee and chocolate truffles. Kick it off with a Honey & Winter Berry Sour from the new Winter Collection cocktail list. Perfecto. Booking is essential for this so get cracking!
The New Club’s new winter menu is available from 12pm Tuesday-Friday and from 4pm on Saturdays.
The New Club, King’s Road, Brighton, East Sussex BN1 2FH.
Suzanne’s food and drink was complimentary, courtesy of The New Club.