Review – The Prince George
The Prince George pub on Trafalgar Street, Brighton, has always been synonymous with good vegetarian pub food. Over the years the Indigo pub has encountered an array of chefs (myself included) that have refined and changed the menu. The latest chef to take over the whites of the kitchen has made a vast improvement on previous incarnations of the menu.
There’s no getting away from the fact that this is a pub. The tables are slightly wobbly, the lighting is low and the ambience is loud and friendly. Quite different from the quality of restaurant-standard food being served. The mains on the menu are split between a variety of classic dishes and a Mexican inspired menu. Although on first glance it seems quite odd to have a Mexican part to the menu – especially when we have such an amazing wealth of Mexican restaurants in the vicinity – however Mexican food has been a honed favourite with the George for years.
Wanting to see what the new chef has conjured up we opted for the vegan spring bean burger (£8.50) and the vegetarian ginger beer battered halloumi (£9.25) Both were served with hand-cut chips and salad.
I chose the vegan choice bean burger as I always feel that the vegans get the short end of the stick more so than vegetarians and I wanted to see how well this fared. The bean burger came served on a huge homemade floury bun with salad and fresh asparagus, covered in delicious vegan cheese. This was one of the best burgers Ive had in a while, topping some of the meaty ringleaders. A vegan burger doesn’t really conjure up the juiciest, dirtiest burger but this was up there. The addition of the crisp spring veg gave it a refreshing, healthy vibe.
My partner’s ginger beer battered halloumi was served as two large battered wedges. Lots of batter surrounding the cheese made for lots of the ginger beer flavour to be savoured. Although this sounded like an odd pairing the savoury, salty cheese went hand in hand with the sweet batter. The texture was deliciously crisp with a perfectly cooked halloumi centre.
Both dishes were served with gigantic hand cut chips which – judging by the their rustic presentation – were homemade and had that sweet potato taste rather than the deep-fried freezer taste that dominates the pub chip world. The salad, although dressed, did seem slightly redundant, not really offering much to the dishes.
For dessert we opted for the vegetarian chocolate truffle cake (£4.95) and the vegan raspberry sundae (£4.95).
The chocolate truffle cake was served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a raspberry coulis. A nice looking plate of food, although initially I thought the portion was slightly small compared to my partner’s sundae…
Once I dived into the cake I soon realised why it’s that size. The cake was almost a truffle. A massive wedge of decadently rich dark chocolate that soon overpowers everything in your mouth – in a good way. It was amazing. The scoop of vanilla ice cream was much needed in order to break up the dish and also acted as a refreshing palate cleanser.
My partner’s vegan raspberry sundae was a tall glass full of vegan ice creams, raspberry and mango coulis and chopped nuts. The ice cream was very flavoursome, rich and had an amazingly smooth texture.
As a fully initiated carnivore I wouldn’t usually opt for a vegetarian or even vegan choice in a restaurant, but all the dishes we sampled at the Prince George were of the topmost quality. For vegetarians or meat eaters alike this pub is well worth a visit.
Words and photographs by Rob Ling.
Rob’s food was complementary courtesy of The Prince George.
Featured photo courtesy of The Prince George website.