Review – The Cow (Breakfasts)
Having previously enjoyed night burgers and drinks at The Cow – the café/restaurant/bar located at the former Tin Drum site in Seven Dials – I was excited to pop by one quiet Sunday morning to sample their breakfast menu. How would the place translate to daytime?
Brilliantly, as it turns out. Just as The Cow is cool, friendly and buzzing at night, it’s relaxing, comfy and beautifully lit in the mornings. We nabbed a sunny window table and set about trying not to order everything on the menu. My Virgin Mary (£3.95) was packed with flavour, with a proper punch of horseradish and chilli, and was accompanied by homemade pork scratchings – a nice touch.
My cappuccino was absolutely enormous, and for just £2.45 was a welcome change from the thimblefuls of tepid coffee which are annoyingly becoming a bit too prevalent across the city.
Unusually for me, I decided against my usual – a Full English (£8.95) – and instead opted for Eggs Benedict (£7.50). This classic dish was perfect, with runny eggs, salty cured ham, a lovely lemony, shiny Hollandaise and griddled homemade muffin. The dressing on the salad was way too salty and so I left it – it wasn’t really necessary.
My friend’s Blueberry pancakes with chargrilled bacon and maple syrup (£6.95) were fluffy and thick, with just the right amount of berries. Blueberry pancakes are also available with bananas, strawberries and maple syrup for £6.95, while the Apple and cinnamon granola with honey, yogurt and berry compote (£5.95) also caught my eye. Portion sizes were perfect for us – and we’re both greedy.
Our only small reservation was that the tea arrived as a teabag floating in a mug, which my friend had to fish out herself. The attention to detail throughout The Cow has been well thought-out, so maybe they could consider serving their tea in little pots instead.
As we ate, staff busied themselves putting ‘reserved’ signs on tables around the restaurant, in preparation for a busy afternoon of Sunday roasts, while the breakfast clientele included everyone from young families (I’ve heard great things about the kids’ menu here) to elderly couples reading the papers. At one point, the chef brought out freshly-baked cakes and displayed them on the bar – I will definitely come back for a slice to accompany one of those huge coffees.
While I have a personal favourite breakfast spot in Joe’s Café on Hamilton Road, which really can’t be beaten for a brilliant-value Full English, I would definitely recommend The Cow for those fuzzy mornings when you need the hair of the dog with your breakfast fare, and want somewhere a little more cool and upbeat to linger in, that has plenty of space for big groups and buggies. I fully intend to return soon for a breakfast treat of Eggs Royale (£7.50) and a Black Velvet (£4.95), and the Sunday roasts are definitely on my hitlist.
Breakfast at The Cow is served Mon-Fri 11am-1pm, Sat and Sun 10am-12pm.
Words and images by Suzanne Rose.
Suzanne’s food and drink was provided courtesy of The Cow