Review – Coggings & Co
Coggings & Co is the new burger restaurant in town. That’s right, restaurant. Not a pop up, not street food, not the world’s biggest, not the world’s baddest; just straight-up burgers served in a sit-down, table service environment.
Having opened on the site of Blenio Bistro off Seven Dials, Coggings & Co is the latest establishment from Andrew Coggings, the restaurateur whose previous ventures include Preston Park Tavern, where he won Pub of the Year in the 2013 Sustainable Restaurant Awards. With Andrews’ priors having an excellent reputation for affordable, high quality food as well as a strong emphasis on both sustainability and service, it’s no surprise that Coggings & Co has taken on both of these attributes.
Painted externally with a gorgeous deep purple, Coggings & Co fits in beautifully on Dyke Road amongst the high-end furniture and boutique shops. Fronted by large windows, the restaurant is bright and spacious, scattered with a mix of study tables for two or more, each topped with thick wooden tops from local business The Wood Store. The clever branding continues with well-presented purple and white menus, printed on thick recycled paper.
In keeping with their Sussex produce focus, Coggings & Co beef is fully traceable to Redlands Farm, Horam. Using chuck meat which is then ground in-house daily, all burgers are cooked medium and served as 6oz patties in a Real Patisserie brioche bun. There are both classic and slightly adventurous burger combinations to be found at Coggings & Co: tomato, mayonnaise, dill pickles and salad, brisket and chipotle chilli with guacamole, sour cream and salad or the gorgeous sounding mushroom tapenade, Harvey’s rarebit and English mustard mayonnaise. Vegetarian and bun-less options also are on the menu as well as daily specials.
Opting for a more traditional burger, I chose the 6oz patty with coastal cheddar, dry-cured honey-glazed streaky bacon, mustard mayonnaise and salad with a side of triple cooked chips (£10.95). Given the option of whether I’d like my chips cooked in beef dripping or vegetable oil was, again, a nice touch and an ideal option for the more health conscious.
Stacked high, slicing the bun and meat combo in half took some effort and it was rewarding to see a pink glow in the centre of the beef patty. The meat itself was burly, slightly smokey and had an almost earthy, organic flavour to it. The light brioche held the fillings together well and didn’t slop and slide like in some other burger joints.
However, what was most refreshing about the Coggings & Co burger was that you could taste every single attribute: the oozing mature cheddar, the slightly sweet yet salty bacon, the smokey mustard mayonnaise and (best of all) the meaty, well seasoned patty. Each topping was there and had a purpose. Nothing too extravagant, just a highly decent burger.
Homemade mayonnaise, rocket laced, peppery side salad and beef dripping chips completed the meal along with a dessert off the specials menu: a supremely sweet homemade Bakewell tart with homemade raspberry and white chocolate ice cream.
Expect table service that is second to none and a great range of Sussex produced beers, cider and organic wines, including Harvey’s, Wobblegate and a series of organic wines. The focus on high quality food at affordable prices will ensure Coggings & Co is full of families, couples and friends all in search of a traditional burger in a restaurant setting.
Words and images by Claire Beveridge
Originally published in the Brighton & Hove Independent 25/04/14